Ukrainian hospitality is legendary, a tradition that endures even in the face of war. Despite the exhaustion and heartbreak of conflict, Ukrainians continue to offer warmth and sustenance to others. This spirit of resilience is beautifully captured in Felicity Spector’s powerful new book, Bread & War: A Ukrainian Story of Food, Bravery and Hope. Through her narrative, we are introduced to the unsung heroes of Ukraine—cooks, bakers, farmers, and volunteers—who use food as a means of resistance and healing.
The Comfort of Ukrainian Cuisine
Ukrainian cuisine is rich with flavors that evoke a sense of home and comfort. From the hearty borscht to the stuffed varenyky dumplings, these dishes are more than just meals; they are symbols of cultural identity and resilience. One such dish is syrniki, small curd cheese pancakes often served with fruit or jam. This dish, a staple of Ukrainian childhood, has become a symbol of comfort and continuity amidst the chaos of war.
Syrniki: A Taste of Home
Syrniki, with their delicate balance of sweetness and tanginess, offer a taste of home that is both comforting and familiar. Felicity Spector’s recipe for syrniki captures the essence of this beloved dish, making it accessible to home cooks around the world. Here’s how you can bring a piece of Ukrainian comfort into your kitchen.
Ingredients
- 220g curd cheese (best to use full-fat Polish tvorog, available in East European shops and big supermarkets)
- 40g cream cheese
- 1 egg yolk
- ½ teaspoon of vanilla
- 1 tablespoon of sugar
- 2 tablespoons of flour, plus extra to dredge
- 75g raisins (optional)
Method
- Combine the cheeses, egg yolk, vanilla, sugar, and two tablespoons of flour in a large bowl. Blend together with a stick blender or a fork until relatively smooth.
- Stir in the raisins.
- Cover the mixture and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or overnight. This step helps the flour absorb moisture from the cheese, making the syrniki easier to shape.
- Divide the mixture into small balls, about 20-25g each, and flatten them with the palm of your hand. Dredge each pancake in flour on both sides.
- Fry the syrniki in sunflower oil over medium-low heat for about three minutes on each side, until they are gently golden brown and cooked through.
- Serve with fresh berries or coulis, and sour cream.
The Healing Power of Food
Food has always been a source of comfort and strength, and in Ukraine, it has become a symbol of resistance. In Kherson, a city under constant attack, locals still gather to share meals like syrniki. In Mykolaiv, volunteers bake sourdough and deliver it to devastated villages. In Kharkiv, a café continues to serve impeccable croissants despite repeated missile attacks. These acts of culinary resilience are not just about survival; they are about maintaining a sense of normalcy and hope.
Felicity Spector’s Bread & War is more than just a cookbook; it is a testament to the resilience and spirit of the Ukrainian people. Through her stories and recipes, we are reminded of the healing power of food and the importance of tradition in times of crisis. Whether you are cooking syrniki at home or supporting Ukrainian bakers and volunteers, you are part of a larger movement that honors the strength and hope of a nation.